HOTEL MEURICE, Paris
I probably wouldn’t remember her at all today, were it not for the photo
still hanging on the wall. Mrs. Davis
is a quirky little memory from my earliest and poorest days in Paris, and she gave me
my first peek at the Hotel Meurice.
I
have always been interested in taking photos, though never motivated
to learn anything on the technical side.
As a result, my pictures are more often than not quite unsatisfying, but
when I manage to eliminate 99 percent of them, I end up with
a few that are more or less what I was hoping to attain.
In 1970, I had rented a small room in a large apartment off the
Champs-Elysées. It was just around the
corner from the Hotel Plaza Athenée, though I didn’t know that at the time. It
was a ridiculous neighborhood for a poor person to live in, but I didn’t
really know that either.
I had just found a job which consisted of typing English and French
translations of what I think were missile specifications. They were destined for some middle eastern
government, were certainly incomprehensible in any language, and my fairly
liberal politics of the period didn’t go so far as interfering with my minimum
wage paycheck.
One Saturday morning I was walking about the neighborhood when I saw a
glamorous older woman, elegantly dressed in what I now imagine was a designer
suit and a snazzy wide-brimmed hat, with a tiny chihuahua cuddled next to her
bosom. She was strolling up the Avenue
François Premier, looking to my mind very much like the latter day Vivien Leigh
whom I had recently seen at the Cinémathèque in “The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone.”
A young Tennessee (Google photo) |
My Mrs. Stone turned into a local café, and as she entered, two young Mediterranean men reached over simultaneously from either side to pet the little dog. It was a provocative gesture, and it reinforced
my association with the Tennessee Williams novella.
I was both timid and brazen in those days, depending on the moment, and perhaps on how much wine I had consumed (ultimately a bit of a problem that I came to terms with while still young). I approached Mrs. Stone, who turned out to be Mrs. Davis, an American resident in Paris. I explained I’d like to take her photo.
“Are you with a magazine?”
Unfazed, appearing to me the epitome of sophistication.
I then had to explain what must have seemed odd, that I didn’t actually
have my camera with me. As it turned
out, Mrs. Davis was very pleasant, as well as patient, and said if I would
hurry, she’d wait with her coffee until I returned with camera.
I did take the picture which is the one above. She said she lived at the
Meurice Hotel across from the Tuileries Gardens (as did Salvador
Dali that year), and suggested I could perhaps drop a copy off there.
Salvador Dali (Google archives photo) |
I’m sure I had never heard of the Meurice in those faraway days, but
probably didn’t admit it. The following
week I went there with my folder of photos, hoping she would be there and
thinking she might become some sort of glamorous friend. When I entered, the hotel was so unexpectedly
grand that I was seized with a kind of stage fright, and I hurriedly left them for her at the desk.
I never saw Mrs. Davis again, but I’ve always kept
her picture, framed with others all these years in my bathroom. It was the first time I had ever set foot in
a Parisian Palace hotel. It took me a few years, but I soon made up
for lost time.
Entering The Meurice today |
[Photos are mine unless otherwise credited]
Next week: "Sunday Lunch With Grandmother Pleasants ..."
34 comments:
Blog launched this morning!
What an enjoyable blog to read, intriguing and intimate. I also enjoy your style of photography, it succeeds very well despite it's technical naivety.
Is it possible that Francis Flaherty, remember her, is the second to last person on your early Paris page?.
I love it - a welcome dream from my desk on a bright Friday morning. Looking forward to more, Sam
thnx martin. coming from a talented professional, your appreciation of my photos --however naive-- is cherished!
yes, that is Frances Flaherty (from Lady's maid to heiress!), seen Chez Francis, Place Alma
Thanks a lot, Samantha. Lots more to come!
What a lovely blog of beautiful photos with elegant subjects. Congratulations on launching it!
Frank: Wonderful. Perhaps I will catch up with all those missing years.
It posted before I finished. I also love the photos. They are of a Paris I once thought I would visit. You can take me there. Walt
enjoying blog: pictures, layout, and content...also comments
rpp
Loved the blog and looking forward to the next.
Re the loos – I was hoping to revisit the Waldorf Astoria’s loo!! When we were in New York, and with so much time on my hands, I became friendly with a couple of other expat wives and twice a month we “did” something different in New York city. However the one thing we looked forward to each time was to visit the Waldorf Astoria for a comfort stop. The three of us were like country bumpkins revelling in being given a large cubicle where you could lie down for a nap, have a shower, sample the many perfumes etc. Wish I had taken some photos. I must say I am quite ready to visit other luxurious loos now!!
Wonderful, wonderful blog! So very evocative of the Paris I had just left
and the one in which you had just arrived.
In your photos of the Deux Magots, the woman on the right in both
photographs must be Janet Flanner, one of my idols. My one great regret of my years in Paris is that I never met her.
I will visit and revisit these pages many times, and look forward to the
next ones.
Best from us both, Joel
Thnx, Joel. Encouraging comments from such a distinguished author!
I doubt very much that the lady at Les Deux Magots was Janet Flanner. Very nice thought, though.
And I just looked at your hotel scrapbook. We have stayed at the Jasmine
House in Charleston for the past five or six years, every March when we go
down for the International Antiques Show. Did you meet Ignatius at the front
desk and Darlene who serves breakfast. Shades of Confederacy of Dunces!
We did indeed meet Ignatius! thnx for sharing.
Great blog. Looking forward to the rest.. especially love the photo of Mrs Davis. xx
THANK YOU! It is a delight to read and peruse and made me want to
cash in my savings and rush off to book into one of these luxurious palaces.
It must have taken you ages to put together and it is astute to use it as a vehicle for selling your pictures too, albeit discreetly. If in the future you wanted to add a little research under another "window", it would be interesting if you could give a brief run-down on each hotel (e.g. Shangri-La : built whenever for Napoleon's brother .. I think? and any other bits of associated gossip deemed news-worthy) but it is not essential.
Anyhow, bravo and I look forward to the next installment.
thnx a lot Carole. I do have a piece in the works on the Shangri-la Hotel, both the one in Paris and in Hong Kong.
to untexan: Many thanks, Walt. I am thrilled by your compliments, all the more so coming from such a talented writer. I like the idea of you catching up the missing years through my postings.
I share a love of luxury hotels (and restaurants and safari lodges, etc) but rarely can indulge it. I did recently encounter the most luxurious public toilet ever: at the Queen's Gallery in Buckingham Palace. I came out of the gnetlemen's declaring that those urinals were fit for a queen!
I love the way you write. Crispy and rhythmic. I'm going to enjoy future stories and posts. Will have a look at the loos when children wakeup!
I am living vicariously through you! I can't tell you how excited I am
about your blog - please keep your musings coming my way!
I fail to have the words that capture the emotion and beauty of your creative writing and pictures in your blog. It reads like a favorite book. A book of beauty!
It was great to see a little of Pinehurst in the Magnolia, and picture of Margaret & Andy Page. Also, the photo of Hotel Royal in San Remo, Italy, I have that black rug in my home, really!
very nice frank
Thank you, Nathan. Your input and problem solving was invaluable when I needed it the most!
As a fairly new friend I was encouraged by the lovely Brenda to read your blog. It is just charming. Love it so far and will be following regularly.
As well as the photos you must have taken detailed notes (kept a diary)?
à bientôt (à Paris!) Cristina
Thanks, Cristina. Stay tuned.
What a knockout of a cyber-show you've created: elegant, vivid and fresh. Unique, too, I'll bet (I refuse to call it a blog. Too ugly a word for this).
The Mrs. Davis intro was a gem. Its a publishable short story. I'm looking forward to the coming installments.
What a marvellous blog! We've enormously enjoyed scrolling through it and we'll look forward to future instalments.
Absolutely loved your blog. Keep it coming. You blog is filled with interesting places and people. What a great way to express yourself. Not only do you have the beautiful photographs, but also a compelling story to tell.
Can't wait to hear about Grandmother Pleasants and the Carthage hotel.
What a treat and a treasure your blog was! I felt like I was momentarily whisked away into the movie "Midnight in Paris!" I will now look forward to my Friday vicarious excursions in Paris - and back in time! Thank you for the fun, Frank!
Thanks, Cam. I'm a big fan of Woody Allen, so I consider any comparison, however slight, of the highest order.
Expect to see you Friday, then, at the Carthage Hotel.
The idea is unique and amazing, and I love your willingness to take me to places that I would love to go!
Your writing is easy and interesting, your concept unique, but the photos are from the heart! I especially love Ms. Davis! WOW! Thanks for the posts and I look forward to enjoying more in the future!
Truly a wonderful idea to have launched this very interesting, personal blog. Yes, it's about you and your delight with exquisite hotels around the world.
Rather charming, I would say.Bravo! I thoroughly enjoyed your photographs : you certainly have an eye, but I've known that for a long time.
It is just LOVELY! Wonderful musings and the photo was priceless. MORE!
Post a Comment