GRAND ALBERGO TIMEO --Taormina, Sicily
Duncan at the Timeo 1980 |
Duncan was conceived at
the Timeo Hotel. At least that is the
story he told.
Americans of means, his parents came to Europe on their honeymoon
a year or so before the outbreak of the First World War. They spent a season in Taormina and established a
lifelong affection with the Timeo.
Duncan in 1980 had more
than continued the tradition. A hypochondriac and a perpetual depressive, he had pretty much given up on life
and had been living in a room at the Timeo for several years when I met him.
The Timeo garden terrace today (photo Orient Express) |
An indiscreet hotel manager confided that Duncan was “not too keen
for the ladies” and that his friend had left him several years previous, which
had precipitated the permanent move into the Timeo.
He had once been a professional photographer, and had first come to Taormina in the late
forties to photograph the majestic mountain and seascapes.
von Gloeden (google) |
Oscar Wilde was one of the first British dandies to visit the hilltop
town. Shortly after the end of the Second World War, Truman Capote led a
contingent of jet-setting artists there.
He spent over a year, which he wrote about in his essay “Fontana Vecchia.”
Duncan first arrived at
the Timeo at about this time.
All of the Anglo Saxons and most of the Italians staying at the hotel
knew him. He enjoyed telling guests how
unhappy he was and how ineffectual was the lithium he took every morning. Despite his seemingly permanent state of
depression, he never left his room without jacket and tie.
Taormina was no longer
exclusively reserved for the happy few.
“Look at those dreadful tour groups”, he said one day, taking his daily
stroll down the Corso. “They all give me the creeps.” The world was changing, and neither Duncan nor
the Timeo wished to follow suit.
“When I wake up, I think ‘Oh, God, no, not another day, I cannot stand
another day on this earth !”
The hotel’s concierge sent me a postcard a few months after my last trip
there, reporting that the “grim reaper” had finally paid Duncan a visit.
Corso Umberto, Main Street Taormina (photo Liv-Life) |
-o-
Of all the many photos I seem to remember taking during my stays at the Timeo, only a few remain.
A few years ago, I had the bright idea of getting rid of several boxes of old memorabilia, including clippings and notebooks ... and many photos. At that time I hadn't looked at them in at least two decades, and I couldn't find a convincing reason to keep them.
Although there was nothing exactly negative about this, I did not wish to imagine myself in similar circumstances. I had enough of an attachment for the memories that those miscellaneous papers documented that I somehow didn't like the idea of them being thrown away by someone else when I would no longer be around or in charge.
So I chucked out a good part of my old souvenirs and held back a handful of photos for no specific reason. They are pretty much all that remain of my Timeo-people memories. Just a few little bits and pieces:
Maria was an English spinster, whose traveling companion (whom we never actually saw) was confined to her room with a sudden, serious illness. She joined us for Christmas dinner, and I am thoroughly ashamed to say we were most unhappy when she continued to join us in the days that followed.
Pier Luigi met his French friend Suzanne at the Timeo every year for a holiday vacation. He was, according to Suzanne, recovering from a serious nervous breakdown, though he always seemed in total control.
The Augers were an Anglo-American couple, regular returning guests at the Timeo. Hugh, a rather bombastic retired army major, was to our eyes --to Anne's and mine-- foolishly pompous. Betty, despite a softer, warmer facade, bore a sometimes uncanny resemblance in her manner of being and flat American accent to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor.
Next Friday: Silver Spooned Children ...
A Few Randon Timeo Faces
Anne |
Of all the many photos I seem to remember taking during my stays at the Timeo, only a few remain.
Claudia |
Urzio |
A few years ago, I had the bright idea of getting rid of several boxes of old memorabilia, including clippings and notebooks ... and many photos. At that time I hadn't looked at them in at least two decades, and I couldn't find a convincing reason to keep them.
I was a
little obsessed with the memory of my mother on her deathbed, sifting through boxes
of family photos, sorting things for different family members and friends to be
dispatched after her death. I couldn’t
understand why she never seemed to finish, until I realized that those boxes of memorabilia were somehow the only thing keeping her alive.
Although there was nothing exactly negative about this, I did not wish to imagine myself in similar circumstances. I had enough of an attachment for the memories that those miscellaneous papers documented that I somehow didn't like the idea of them being thrown away by someone else when I would no longer be around or in charge.
So I chucked out a good part of my old souvenirs and held back a handful of photos for no specific reason. They are pretty much all that remain of my Timeo-people memories. Just a few little bits and pieces:
Maria was an English spinster, whose traveling companion (whom we never actually saw) was confined to her room with a sudden, serious illness. She joined us for Christmas dinner, and I am thoroughly ashamed to say we were most unhappy when she continued to join us in the days that followed.
Pier Luigi |
Pier Luigi and Suzanne |
Pier Luigi met his French friend Suzanne at the Timeo every year for a holiday vacation. He was, according to Suzanne, recovering from a serious nervous breakdown, though he always seemed in total control.
The Augers were an Anglo-American couple, regular returning guests at the Timeo. Hugh, a rather bombastic retired army major, was to our eyes --to Anne's and mine-- foolishly pompous. Betty, despite a softer, warmer facade, bore a sometimes uncanny resemblance in her manner of being and flat American accent to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor.
There was undoubtedly a story somewhere behind each of these faces. However, the above jottings represent the extent of my memories. So the Timeo vignettes end today with Duncan.
Your input is welcomed: hotel-musings@hotmail.fr
Next Friday: Silver Spooned Children ...
[Photos are mine unless otherwise credited]
14 comments:
I enjoyed every word, every picture, AND every person.
Dickie
Have just read the last two postings. Very enjoyable, thanks.
I gave up smoking in 1976 (a habit of 60 a day)but did not have the sense or the discipline to put the money in a seperate pot!
Again enjoyable, if somewhat melancholic.
Thanks for another interesting Friday morning morsel--is there a book deal in the future?"
Hi, Marilyn. The idea is flattering, but I think my meanderings and my self discipline (lack of) are especially suited to the flexibility and interaction of the internet. thnx for the thought.
another great escape to another world.
Along with the glamorous hotels and the international locations, it is the little human stories which accompany each musing that make them so enjoyable.
Your writing reminds me of Alistair Cooke’s “Letters from America.". He often included observations made by waiters, taxi drivers, lift attendants etc. on the particular situation on which he was writing, thus creating an easy common denominator for listeners from all walks of life.
That is a great compliment, Chris. Alastair Cooke was a reference for any creative journalist. I discovered him and followed his BBC chronicles when I moved to London in 1969. I continued my first years in Paris.
BLOG EXTRAORDINAIRE !
I have been enjoying reading your blog via postings from Martin/Marina on Facebook.......thoroughly enjoying them all, so thank you.
I have not frequented many flash or interesting hotels so it is all
a treat. We do tend to go for the cheaper end of the scale being
backpackers at heart......but what a delightful tale you tell. Keep it up please. Is there an alert system when you have posted something new?
Great to hear from you, Rosanne. I post every Friday morning (evening for you), and you have been added to my list of email reminders sent out each time. Welcome aboard!
P.S to Rosanne: Marina tells me that you met in a hotel lobby in Gangtok, India. What an appropriate introduction to the blog.
I love the way you write, Frank. It's a treat every Friday morning. Please continue for a long long time.
Frank: I expect to see Scott and Zelda pausing in the background of one of your photos. I love the way you evoke the feel of the people you've seen and the places you've been. I also remember sitting in my spot on the copy desk and looking across the newsroom at your back as you worked. Back bent, elbows flapping just a bit, you seemed to have the loosest of connections to your typewriter and your work in those days. I suppose you were anticipating going all these places even then.
to untexan/hud/walt: How wonderfully evocative! Thnx and happy thanksgiving.
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